Ben Tianavaig, Braes
TROTTERNISH, PORTREE AND THE BRAES
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1. There is parking by the picnic tables in front of the stony beach at Camastianavaig. This is a beautiful, sheltered and peaceful settlement. The walk begins fifty yards along the road, near the red post box. Head up what looks like a drive here; the path goes off left just before the gate. It has a wooden sign reading 'Hill path' but this can be hard to spot at first. The path heads uphill by the rowan trees, keeping between two fences.
2. When the fences end, the path splits with variants going left and right; take the right hand variant, which slopes up the hill. When it levels off, continue along the edge of the steep drop, keeping below a couple of rocky knolls before ascending a third, heathery knoll. From here, the way is clear with excellent sheep-tracks continuing along the cliff edge.
3. The next section of the walk is delightful; keep to the edge of the escarpment with dramatic views to the sea below. Further along, there are a couple of rocky steps which can be avoided on the left; the views back towards the Red Hills and the Cuillin improve with every step, whilst almost the whole of Raasay can be seen across the narrows. Continue up the cliff edge until the trig point on the pointed summit of Ben Tianavaig is reached.
4. Ben Tianavaig is only 1355 feet high but has a delightful summit and superlative views. Portree harbour is revealed suddenly, together with the Storr and the Trotternish coast, whilst the view across to Raasay has a foreground of odd-shaped rocks and pinnacles. The easiest way back to Camastianavaig is by the route of ascent (with great views ahead all the time) but there is a rougher alternative down close to the sea.
5. For this coastal route, continue north along the escarpment from the summit until, after about four hundred metres, it is possible to descend to the right. Turn sharp right here and begin to descend the grassy valley of the An Ceam Dubh beneath Ben Tianavaig's cliffs. Once you are opposite a prominent, flat green pasture right down by the sea, bear left and work your way down the very steep heather slopes to reach it. This is a good place to spot seals or porpoise.
6. Continue on a narrow path south along the coast; it soon ascends to keep above the shore. As the southern end of Ben Tianavaig is rounded, the slope becomes very steep but the path cuts across it and gives a practical route. Beyond this airy section, the shore is reached at Camastianavaig. Continue along the edge of the stony beach to return to the start.
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