Boreraig and Suisnish: the Cleared Coast
THE RED HILLS, BROADFORD, ELGOL AND RAASAY
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1. Park opposite the ruined church of Cill Chriosd four kilometres out of Broadford on the road to Elgol. The ruin dates from the sixteenth century when this was the heart of one of Skye's most fertile and populous districts; following the declining population and the forced evictions of the Clearances the church fell into ruins and was superseded in 1840 by a new church at Broadford. Walk along the road towards Broadford until a track goes off to the right. Turn up this track which leads to the ruins of an old Marble processing factory. Keep to the left of these ruins following a rough track uphill.
2. When the track reaches an excellently maintained footpath, turn right along it. This was the route of a railway line that ran between Broadford and a series of Marble quarries which closed in 1912; they had been worked for at least a century and in 1907 a railway was built to transport the marble to Broadford, but the company soon folded. Skye Marble was highly prized, being used in Iona Abbey and Hamilton Palace. Pass the first spoil heaps and go through a gate to continue to the upper quarry.
3. On the ground a circular structure is all that remains of a winding wheel that once pulled the trains up the incline you've just ascended. A path goes off to the right here, but ignore it and continue on the path rising uphill. After passing a cairn at the summit of the pass, with great views back towards Bla Bheinn, the track becomes a path and goes through a gate. A sign announces the start of the Beinn nan Carn Native Woodland project; the moorland beyond the gate having being planted with scattered native trees. There is now a stream and valley down to the left, and the path climbs again slightly before beginning its descent to the coast.
4. Pass to the right of some sheepfolds and continue down to the shore as the path becomes indistinct amongst old green fields and ruined houses. This is Boreraig, as fertile, sheltered and beautiful a spot as any village on Skye, but it was brutally cleared by Lord Macdonald in 1853, all residents being evicted and their homes burned to make way for the more profitable sheep. On a fine sunny day it is easy to imagine the children playing amongst the fields.
5. From Boreraig the route follows a coastal path; first cross the stream by a stone slab bridge just above the shore. After crossing an elevated greensward the path passes to the left of the last building in Boreraig, keeping right on the shoreline where the cliffs press close. Most of the way it is a beautifully graded path as it was originally the main route to Boreraig, but in places the path has been destroyed by the decaying cliffs and you have to weave between the rocks; there are several fine waterfalls cascading down from the black slabby cliffs. Look out for seals and otters on the shoreline section, before the path ascends to a higher level and continues to Suisnish.
6. On reaching a fence, follow the path round the fence to the right. Shortly after turning a corner in the fence, go through the gate on the left and descend to the barn below. Go through another gate to the right of the barn where a good landrover track begins. Follow this track to another ruined house; you are now in Suisnish. There are lots more ruined houses on the hillsides above and below - Suisnish being cleared at the same time as Boreraig.
7. The geologist Archibald Geikie was visiting the area at the time of the clearance, and his recollection is worth quoting here: 'A strange wailing sound reached my ears… I could see a long and motley procession winding along the road that led north from Suisnish… There were old men and women, too feeble to walk, who were placed in carts; the younger members of the community on foot were carrying their bundles of clothes... while the children, with looks of alarm, walked alongside.... A cry of grief went up to heaven, the long plaintive wail, like a funeral coronach, was resumed.. the sound re-echoed through the wide valley of Strath in one prolonged note of desolation'.
8. The landrover track soon turns northwards for three kilometres until reaching the pebble beach at Camas Malag, the sublime views of the southern end of the Cuillin, Bla Bheinn and the Red Hills improving with every step. Camas Malag is the terminus of a minor road, which is followed uphill away from the coast, passing the present day Torrin Marble Quarry, before reaching a junction with the Broadford/Elgol road. Turn right and follow the minor road, with care as it can be busy with cars in the summer months. It leads past pleasant native woodland and reedy Loch Cill Chriosd (a haunt of Whooper Swans) to return to the start point.
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