The Spar Cave, near Elgol
THE RED HILLS, BROADFORD, ELGOL AND RAASAY
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1. Note that this walk is only possible for around one hour either side of low-tide. It is quite possible to become stranded in the Spar Cave, so it is best to reach the sea shortly before low tide and visit the cave as soon as possible, leaving time to return. Drive down the winding road to Glasnakille from Elgol; at the 'T' junction at its foot, turn right and park immediately by the phone box. The walk starts about two hundred metres further along the road, where there is a ruinous barn in a field on the left. Go through the gate into this field. A path descends down a depression just to the right of the barn, heading directly towards the coast. As it reaches the coast, it turns right - do not turn this way, but instead bear left on a faint sheep path, crossing a small stream. This path soon becomes clear to follow and swings right before descending very clearly in a couple of zig-zags down to a sea inlet.
2. The floor of the inlet is covered with jagged boulders; continue down towards the sea. Reaching the Spar Cave involves continuing round the coast to the left, on the boulders. Rounding the first corner, another very narrow inlet is revealed, with a flooded floor. Do not attempt to enter it, but continue round the coast on the boulders, which should be possible once the tide is fully out. Continue round the next little headland, where you will have to walk carefully along a rock-ledge to keep out of the sea. Take care as it may be slippery. Round the corner, a wider inlet or gorge is revealed, with vertical sides. Walk up into it.
3. There are the remains of a wall across the head of the inlet. When Walter Scott visited the Spar Cave in 1814 he had to climb over the wall using a rope, but a later passing sailor fired a cannon at the wall, demolishing it. There are two cave entrances beyond; the one on the right is filled with water, whilst that on the left is the Spar Cave itself.
4. Take at least two torches into the cave in case the batteries fail. The passage is fairly wide and has a very high roof. The floor is muddy at first, but once the cave turns to the right, the walls, floor and ceiling all become covered with Spar or Flowstone (Calcium Carbonate) formations. The cave once had many stalactites but Victorian visitors stole most of these. Round the corner, the floor of the cave begins to rise steeply in a sort of flowstone staircase. It looks treacherously slippery but does in fact give reasonable grip and it can be ascended with great care. Keep towards the right wall at first, and after the stair levels off briefly part way up it is easier to ascend the left side. Above, there is a level section of cave before another flowstone stairway descends to a lake. The lake is the limit of possible explorations. Walter Scott wrote about the lake and cave in his poem The Lord of the Isles.
5. The return is by the same route. If you have taken too long and the tide has come in, you will be trapped in the Spar Cave for twelve hours until the next low tide.
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